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The story of a unique community, journeying across the Adriatic all the way to Portella della Ginestra

This Urban Trekking itinerary combines art, spirituality, and historical memory, offering a unique journey through Piana degli Albanesi: a place where East meets West, every stone tells a story, and great history intertwines with the lives of a remarkable community.
The route includes a starting or ending stop, depending on group organization, at Portella della Ginestra, site of the May 1, 1947 Massacre and the first Land Art Monument in Sicily.
Here, visitors will learn about the tragic events, the socio-political conditions that led to them, the historical consequences, and the judicial proceedings that continue to resonate today. The story of the Sicilian Workers’ Fasci, deeply connected to the political commitment of the Piana degli Albanesi community, will also be introduced.
In town, the journey begins at Piazzale Peppino Impastato, the parking area next to the Post Office, just below the Viadotto Tozia, connecting the historic center with the newer part of the town. Crossing the viaduct, you arrive directly in front of the Cathedral of San Demetrio.
Next is the central Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the heart of Piana degli Albanesi, home to the old Town Hall, now the “Giuseppe Schirò” Library, the Sanctuary of Maria Odigitria, the Tre Cannoli fountain, and the slightly hidden Church of San Giorgio Megalomartire.
From this square, the cultural identity of the Arbëreshë community — which has preserved its language and traditions for centuries — is immediately felt.
Leaving the square, narrow side streets lead to the Sheshi district, one of the oldest in the Arbëresh village. The streets are irregular, houses follow the natural terrain, and rocky foundations are often part of the structure.
A fascinating urban labyrinth where time seems to have stood still. Stone staircases, sometimes carved directly from rock, connect the different levels of the district, forming small squares that once served as gathering places for conversation and community life.
Today, the echoes of mule hooves and children’s voices have faded, replaced by a quiet that reflects the demanding rhythm of daily life here. Cars cannot reach the homes, and scooters cannot roam freely. The slow, deliberate pace of human footsteps still rules.
In recent years, the tenacious and creative work of a local association has transformed Sheshi into an Open-Air Museum. Giant murals, sculptures, and wrought iron artworks narrate the community’s story in an artistic journey that grows year by year. References to Piana degli Albanesi’s ancient and recent history, reinterpretations of religious themes, and the craft of artisans blend into a thread that has made this village unique in the region.
After exploring Sheshi, the route continues to the majestic Cathedral of San Demetrio Megalomartire, the spiritual heart of the Byzantine Italo-Albanian community. Inside, the mystical atmosphere is enriched by the finely decorated iconostasis, golden icons, and fragrant incense used in every liturgy.
The guided tour, including insights into Byzantine rites and symbolism, allows visitors to grasp the depth of Byzantine spirituality and the expressive power of sacred imagery.
On the way back to the square, a stop at the Church of San Giorgio Megalomartire is well worth it — another jewel of Byzantine art and an important religious landmark for the local community.
The itinerary concludes at the Nicola Barbato Civic Museum, dedicated to the famous doctor and socialist politician from Piana degli Albanesi, a leading figure in the Sicilian Workers’ Fasci.
The museum preserves documents, photographs, and artifacts that tell the social and political history of the area, offering a fascinating journey into the collective memory and civic commitment of the Arbëreshë community.
 

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